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Getting Started

The Donor Car

Removing the ICE

Electric Motor

Coupler
Adapter Plates
Installing the Motor
Batteries
Controller
Brake Vacuum

12 volt Circuit

Testing
Driving

Removing the Internal Combustion Engine (ICE)

Here is the engine compartment, with cat:

I won't be sorry to see all those vacuum hoses go, or the distributor, or the carburetor, the timing belt, the alternator. The starter motor never gave me any trouble!

November 6. I put the car on the lift:

Here is some stuff I don't need anymore. The muffler, the gas tank, the exhaust pipe:

Here I cut the rusty bolts holding the long exhaust pipe to the front pipe:

Exhaust system out:

(These parts aren't too old. We have a '91 hatchback that needs a muffler. It's not the same as this one, but I have a power hacksaw, grinder, air cutter and a welder. I cut the old pipes off, welded a piece of pipe on and welded on iron hooks. Everything old is new again.):

 

November 7. I drained the oil from the engine. Then I drained the gas from the gas tank and removed the tank:

I also unbolted and removed the heat shields A and B. No exhaust pipe or muffler, no heat shields needed.

I removed the battery and measured the distance between a push broom across the fenders and the top of the transaxle. I will want to match this distance when the new motor is mounted in the front to maintain original drive axle angles:

I also drained the radiator.

November 8. The engine is connected to many things. I will disconnect everything as carefully as I need to. I may be able to use dash panel lights or meters to monitor the status of the electric motor system so I will document which wires go where. Here are the spark coil and wires:

Starter motor wire:

Scary vacuum box connectors:

Here is the accelerator cable mount:

Here is the engine compartment so far. Refer to the numbers.

1) I unbolted and removed the hood

2) I removed the air cleaner from the carburetor and the air tube from the fender well

3) I cut and plugged the gas lines

4) I unbolted the scary vacuum box from the firewall

5) I disconnected the accelerator and clutch cables:

November 9. I disconnected these wires from the radiator (R) and cooling fan (F):

I removed the radiator overflow reservoir and cooling fan, disconnected coolant hoses and removed the radiator. Here is a still-crowded engine compartment but there is space up front now:

Here are some parts in the corner:

November 12. I ordered the electric motor from EV America! An Advanced 8" DC series wound motor: $1325 plus shipping.

It will be easier to get the engine out if I remove the exhaust manifold. This picture shows some of the nuts that must come off:

It was surprisingly easy to loosen these. I sprayed them first with PB Blaster penetrating oil/rust dissolver . I used a 1/2" socket wrench with a 6 point socket. There were two bolts to remove underneath. Easy with the lift. Manifold removed:

November 14. I removed the distributor. At the top of this photo is the clamp that holds the clutch cable. It will have to be mounted in a similar location after the new motor is installed:

Two engine wiring harness connectors disconnected:

One fuse wire had to come off:

I disconnected the speedometer cable from the transaxle housing:

This is a spring pin that holds the shift linkage to the transaxle. I'm having trouble punching it out. I can disconnect the linkage at the other end if I have to.

I got an email from EV America with a tracking number for the motor. It shipped yesterday!

November 15. The half shafts (axles) must come off the transaxle before removing the engine and transaxle. The little cover in the center of the wheel:

comes off:

The nut has a bent sleeve that must be unbent. I broke the tip of a screwdriver and the tip of a pair of pliers getting these unbent.

The book says to lower the car to the ground to loosen this big nut, but I have other resources:

The nut comes off, then the wheel.

Next: ball joints. The lower arm holds the ball joint. It's held in place with a castle nut and cotter pin:

The books say place an auto jack under the lower arm so that the arm doesn't shoot down under the tension of the torsion bar when the ball joint is separated. I put a big hunk of pine tree under the arm:

I used a ball joint separator tool to free the ball joint. Insert tool above rubber boot, bash end with hammer until separation. This is a view of the tool and the passenger side with freed lower arm:

Once the ball joint was free, I could lift the wheel assembly off the ball joint stud and pull the axle out of the wheel:

Before removing the half shafts, I drained the oil from the transaxle:

I used a pry bar to nudge the half shafts out of the transaxle body. Here they are:

I raised the car and loosened all the engine mount bolts a half turn or so to be sure they weren't frozen. Then I moved the shop crane into place.

Ah, now I see why they said remove the fuel pump:

I unbolted the fuel pump and moved it aside. I lifted the engine with the crane to just take the weight off the engine mounts and removed all the engine mount bolts. Then I lifted up the engine!

Easy! No hitch. My son helped me wiggle the engine out of its compartment. We rolled it easily on the steel crane wheels to the other auto bay, lowered it gently to the floor:

The empty engine compartment:

Next: the electric motor.