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Getting Started

The Donor Car

Removing the ICE

Electric Motor

Coupler
Adapter Plates
Installing the Motor
Batteries
Controller
Brake Vacuum

12 volt Circuit

Testing
Driving

Adapter Plates/Spacers

I will design the adapter plates/spacers around the coupler.

To recess the coupler as much as possible, I want to remove the tip of the pilot shaft:

Cut it off:

The adapter plate was a big rectangle two pages ago. I cut the plate on the band saw to conform roughly with the shape of the transaxle housing. Then I put red paint on the area near the axle so I could transfer the cutting pattern to the plate and trim off enough of the plate to allow for the axle. You can see that I have also inscribed a big circle on the plate for the coupler hole:

Now the axle fits:

Now I have to cut a big enough hole in the adapter plate to allow the coupler to fit through. I set up the same jig I used for the coupler ring and drilled many holes:

Then I clamped the plate in the big vise so I could cut out the hole with a reciprocating saw:

I cut about half with the reciprocating saw. It seemed to be getting tired so a took a big hacksaw blade and cut with gloved hands. Circle cut:

Here is the coupler almost fitting inside:

I needed to cut this big hole to allow step-wise assembly of the coupler and plates.

December 24. I want to use the piece cut out of the adapter plate as a spacer (see computer model below). The shaft end of the motor has a slight raised center:

So I mounted the circle on a face plate on the lathe and cut an indentation in the circle:

When I did a test fit of the motor (bagged up to protect against metal chips and dust) and transaxle together, however...

I could see that the spacer next to the motor must have a hole to allow for the pulley. I'll cut the pulley down and cut a matching hole in the spacer. I'm using a carbide cutting tool for the hard steel pulley:

I made a computer model of the transaxle - coupler - motor including plate and spacers to help me visualize the big picture:

Pulley cut:

Spacer hole bored out. I mounted the spacer on 1/4" shims so I could bore out the hole without digging into the faceplate. I still have to smooth out the edge:

Edge smoothed. You can see the mounting hardware in the background:

I had to drill out the mounting holes a little. The spacer fits:

December 26. Trip to Fazzio's. I got more hardware to bolt everything together. I also got another piece of aluminum, a 12 x 14" plate for the "motor mounting plate" shown here under the transaxle plate:

December 27. I bored a 1 1/8" hole in the mounting plate so I could line the plate up with the motor:

I marked the center of a bolt using the lathe, and screwed the bolt into the motor shaft. Then I measured a circle with a 6.65" diameter so I could mark and drill 3/8" holes for the motor mount bolts. Here is the plate on the motor, holes drilled, bolts in place to check fit. Two of the holes are exactly right. They will serve as positioning pins. I had to drill the other holes out, increasing the drill size by 1/64th inch increments until the bolts went in smoothly:

I drilled out a 4" hole using the same method I used on the transaxle plate:

Here is the motor mounting plate with pulley and motor mounted:

I attached the rest of the coupler using four bolts for a test fit:

Test fit:

December 28. The slight gap between the plates can be reduced by boring out the hole in the aluminum plate to allow it to fit over the splined tranny shaft. I put the coupler back on the lathe and bored out the center enough to accommodate the splined shaft:

I made a crude balance tester to make sure the coupler was balanced:

This was a little too crude. I replaced the hacksaw blades with a thin band saw blade from my 9" band saw. I rotated the coupler to see if it had a preferred position, found it a little off balance. I replaced one of the 4 gram oval washers with a 2 gram circular washer. That gave a better balance. I numbered all the bolts so I can assemble the coupler the same way each time:

I need to drill holes in the tranny plate that will be centered on the holes in the tranny case. I made a slip-fit punch on the lathe using a piece of 1/2" steel rod that just fits in the holes in the tranny case:

With the tranny plate mounted on the alignment pins in the case, inserted the punch and tapped it with a hammer. It made a nice mark on the plate:

December 29. Before I drill the tranny plate, I want to make sure the motor lines up with the transaxle shaft. I suspended the transaxle above the motor using the shop crane:

You can see all the parts here, the spacers/plates and coupler. When lowered, the crane takes the weight off the tranny so I can correctly center it on the tranny shaft.

December 30. I want to spin the motor to check for good alignment. The motor has four big lugs on it: S1 and S2 go to the field coils, A1 and A2 go to the armature. My motor was wired by EV America for Honda vehicles to rotate in a clockwise direction. EVA recommends this hook-up: connect positive terminal to A2, connect S2 to A1 (field coils and armature are wired in series), connect negative terminal to S1. I used 10 gauge copper wire for the connections. Here is the set-up, a crude motor testing stand. The 2x4's are to keep the assembly from rotating:

I ran the motor, adjusted the plates until I got a smooth rotation with no knocking, then clamped the plates together with C-clamps. I removed the transaxle, put the motor on the floor and drilled two "3/8ths" holes (using a 1/64th under drill) in the plates. I put two tight-fitting 3/8ths bolts to test fit these pinning holes. Then I disassembled the plates and drilled mounting holes. Here are the plates, pinned and drilled, along with all the coupler parts, total cost about $80:

December 31. I assembled the parts and did a test run on the bench. A noticible knocking sound was evident, so I loosened bolts to readjust. I removed one of the 3/8ths pins, replaced it with a 5/16ths bolt to allow some wiggle room, moved the plates until I got a smooth run. I bolted the parts together and redrilled for a new pin. There was still a quiet knock from the transaxle. I rigged a flexible coupler with a turned wooden dowel and rubber hose which showed that the tranny knocks at any alignment. If I ignore it, it will go away.

Here is the motor during final testing:

I'm ready to put the motor in the car.