Replacing the Driver's Side CV Axle, 2012 Nissan Rogue

The 2012 Rogue has a clicking CV half-shaft. There is grease on the driver's side suspension parts and a cracked CV boot. Time to replace that axle.

Remove this splash shield:

Lift the car, remove the wheel, remove the cotter pin:

Remove the lock ring:

Remove the big nut with the air wrench and big socket.

I loosened this nut for the vertical stabilizer bar:

I removed caliper mounting bolts with the big torque wrench:

I removed the bolts holding a bracket against the strut. I didn't take a picture of the bracket... but the nuts can be seen in this picture:

I put yellow paint and punch marks on the bolt heads and nuts so I could return them to their original torque? The youtubers say this is so you don't have to get wheel alignment... hmm.

I used a ball joint separator tool to remove the steering knuckle:

This is an inexpensive tool from Harbor Freight. Very useful for separating ball joints:

I wrenched the tool, tapped the top of the tool with a hammer, the steering knuckle broke free:

I pried the old axle out with a cold chisel as pry tool, tapped it with a hammer. The axle popped out. Here it is on the bench next to the new axle box:

I put a bucket under the tranny to catch the small amount of fluid that leaked out. See below.

New axle on. I lined it up, shoved it in, took a few shoves and twists before it went all the way home:

The steering knuckle nut would not go back on because the ball spun in its socket. I put some pressure on the bottom of the knuckle using a floor jack and pipe of appropriate length...

... so I could tighten the nut:

I put everything back on, in the order I removed them. Note that I loosened but did not remove the vertical stabilizer bar. I tightened it back to the original torque.

Here are diagrams from Nissan service manuals, available as of this writing here:

This diagram shows the torque of the strut bracket nuts as 104 ft-lbs, and the stabilizer bar nut torque as 62 ft-lbs.

Steering knuckle, 25 ft-lbs.

Caliper mounting bolts, 62 ft-lbs.

I measured the amount of tranny fluid in the bucket, about 300 ml, then I added this same amount of new fluid meeting the NS-2 spec, according to the sticker on the underside of the engine hood. The tranny fill tube cap, located under the hood, has a tricky release tab that must be released with a small flat blade screwdriver. I used a funnel with a narrow tube to add the fluid.

A test drive showed the clicking sounds are gone.

April 29, 2020