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Getting Started

The Donor Car

Removing the ICE

Electric Motor

Coupler
Adapter Plates
Installing the Motor
Batteries
Controller
Brake Vacuum

12 volt Circuit

Testing
Driving

The Electric Motor and Adapter Plate

What's in the box?

An Advanced 8" DC electric motor that I picked up today, November 18, from a Yellow Freight terminal. This is a 72 - 120 volt motor, a good size for a 2500 to 3500 pound car. I will design the car for 120-volt operation:

100 pounds of copper, iron and aluminum.

How do I put these together?

I need a metal plate that will bolt to the transaxle housing and to the motor. I need a coupler that will smoothly transfer the power of the motor to the shaft of the transaxle. I can't buy these at Auto Mart. I could send my clutch disk to EV America with some measurements and they would send me everything I need to connect these together.

I would like to try to do this myself. I found a detailed description of what I need to do here:

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/4429/cl3.htm

November 22. I got a 1/2" thick 15" square piece of aluminum at Fazzio's for about $3 a pound. There it is behind the transaxle:

You can see that I transferred the two alignment pins from the original ICE housing to the transaxle housing. Here is a close up:

I dabbed some red paint on the pins:

Then I leaned the aluminum plate against the pins to transfer the location of the pins to the plate:


I need the lift to inspect the brakes on my son's car, so I put the ball joint studs back in the lower arms and put on the wheels so I could push the car out of the garage. I took this opportunity to reweigh the front end, got 470 pounds at each wheel. So the car lost about 425 pounds when I removed the engine and transaxle.

Here is the car outside, where I gave the engine compartment a little bath. The front end is sitting high without the engine and drive train:

November 25. I measured the alignment pin diameter with a caliper, got 14.2 mm. The closest I came to a 14 mm drill bit was 9/16ths which is 14.28 mm by calculation, or about 6 thousandths large. I would rather be on the small side and ream out the hole a little, but I suspect the fit will be snug after both holes have been drilled.

I drew a cross on the red circle to help define center:

Punched a with a center punch:

Drilled a hole with straight sides about 9/32nds deep:

November 27. I drilled the other alignment pin hole and as hoped, the plate is snug when sitting on the pins.

Now I can find the center point of the transaxle shaft. I used my handy caliper to measure the inside diameter of the hole in the pilot shaft and turned an old bolt down to the correct diameter on the lathe. Then I cut a little tip at the end on which I will dab some paint:

Centering pin in the shaft:

I had to cut another pin because the first one stuck out too far. Here is the second pin with paint on it:

Then I set the plate on the alignment pins to mark the plate with a red dot:

I center punched the dot and got out my measuring tools. Using the engineering drawing of the motor to get the correct radius, 3.325 inches, I drew a circle centered on the red dot punch mark. I used the properties of a right triangle to figure out the distance between the bolt holes: 4.702 inches.

I measured and punched each point with the center punch. Measure twice, punch once:

I machined another pin long enough to extend beyond the plate:

I drilled the center hole in the plate and lined the plate up over the alignment pins. The center pin stuck through very nearly centered:

So I drilled the four mounting holes and drew a rough outline of the transaxle case on the plate:

Now I need to figure out the motor-to-tranny coupling.